It’s not easy getting behind the idea of purposefully making
food more expensive.
Industrialized food production, global transportation networks, and the
concentration of food distribution into mammoth corporations have made food
cheaper than ever in developed countries.
This can only be a good thing, right? Particularly for poor people, who have
to make every dollar stretch as far as possible. But with endless articles about the new American farmer
movement and the need to build a “sustainable food system”, we have to wonder
if food is too cheap to make being a small-scale organic farmer financially sustainable.
As the most
recent USDA Census of Agriculture reports, “the share of farmers working
off-farm grew from 55 percent in 2002 to 65 percent in 2007”. Almost all of the
small organic farmers I know can’t afford to pay farm workers or themselves a
self-supporting wage on what they make on the farm, so they get additional off-farm
jobs or often end up leaving farming.
The small-scale organic farm economic model isn’t
sustainable because we are competing in a broken food system. Our food system manufactures cheap food
as its highest goal. Looking at
the price of meat in the grocery store, a loaf of bread, a bunch of kale, or
the McDonald’s Dollar Menu should make you wonder, how is it possible to
produce food this cheaply?
The answer is the dominance of large-scale, fully mechanized
mega-farms and a massive US government subsidy program that supports them. According to an analysis by the Environmental Working Group,
of the $292.5 billion in subsidies spent between 1995-2012, ten percent of the
largest farms collected 75% of all subsidies. The most heavily subsidized foods are corn, wheat, soybeans
and rice; vegetable crops don’t receive any subsidies.
In addition to subsidization, mega-farms have perfected the
practice of growing food cheaply largely by greatly reducing the need for human
labor by mechanizing farms and using chemical fertilizers and pesticides to
control weeds instead of organic materials and human labor.
This approach has been successful when measured by the
relative cheapness and abundance of food American’s
spend 6% of their disposable income on food compared to over
40% of their disposable income at the turn of the 20th century.
But like the old saying goes, nothing comes without a
cost.
Our current subsidization approach has rewarded growing
crops that are primarily used as animal feed and keep the price of meat
artificially low, that make-up many of the core ingredients in highly processed
foods (like high-fructose corn syrup), and that have resulted in 50%
of American farmland planted to corn and soy with less than two percent planted
to vegetables.
At the same time, conventional farming practices that rely
on nearly total mechanization produce
40% more greenhouse gas emissions than organic practices and rely on chemical pesticides
that have been scientifically proven to be hazardous to human health.
In other words, we have created a food system that promotes
unhealthy American eating habits directly tied to the obesity epidemic in
America and that rewards farming practices that are bad for the environment. To help build a better, more
sustainable food system, we have to start rewarding better farming practices
and start subsidizing crops that improve our diets.
Growing organic food takes more work than food grown conventionally. Truly sustainable organic farms make compost and use animal manures to fertilize their soil instead of chemical fertilizers. They hand-weed and mulch instead of using chemical fertilizers to control weeds. They often grow a diversity of vegetables to protect against insect pressure instead of growing only one crop. While far better for the environment, all of these practices require more work, which makes organic food more expensive than food grown conventionally.
Although the sale of organic foods and products has grown
more than three-fold over the past fifteen years, they still just account for 3%-4%
of all US food sales. This
means that the price-point for food bought by most Americans is still being set
by conventional food producers, who have perfected the art of cheap food,
helped greatly by public subsidies and farming practices that are productive
but harmful to the environment and human health.
Bottom-line, conventional food is too cheap. It does not reflect the true costs of
growing it – not only free of subsidization, but factoring in the costs of
chemical fertilizer run-off into streams and rivers, hazardous pesticides that harm
farm workers and leave trace residues consumed at home, or greenhouse gas emissions
due to heavy mechanization.
Sustainable farmers are competing against false food
prices. Even though a growing
number of Americans are seeking out and willing to pay more for organic and
locally grown food (as evidenced by the recent Whole
Foods grocery chain expansion), the reality is that a farmer can only
charge so much above conventional food prices before it becomes hard to find
customers.
This puts sustainable farmers in a real bind: they can’t
charge people what it truly costs to grow food sustainably, so they charge what
they think they can and subsidize the rest with a second job and the farm work
of unpaid volunteers or barely paid farm apprentices. How will it be possible to build a sustainable, more
healthy food system if the basic finances don’t work at the ground level?
We need to make conventional food prices reflect the real
costs of growing them by re-orienting farm subsidies towards supporting
healthier crops, healthier farming practices, and requiring conventional food
producers to internalize the costs of harmful farm practices. It is worth
noting that the new
2014 Farm Bill takes positive steps forward by reducing traditional crop
subsidies, expanding subsidies for fruit, and vegetable growers, and increasing
funding for converting conventional farmland to organic.
Yet we still remain in a system that is geared towards
ensuring that conventionally grown food does not reflect the true costs of
growing it. Changing the system to
make it more healthy and environmentally sustainable will increase the cost of
food.
Taking action to make food more expensive? This is the third-rail of agricultural
policy. It will be hard to find a
politician, USDA official, or food advocate that will stand up and take this
position publicly.
The first concern will be if we charge more for organically
grown food, does that mean we are creating a system where poor Americans can’t
afford to eat healthily?
Why do we have to choose between producing food more
sustainably and making it cheap? Maybe
we have the problem all wrong. The
affordability of food isn’t only a matter of how much it costs, but also how
much a person has to spend on it.
If we are to build a new, more sustainable food system,
farmers have to be able to sell their food for what it costs to grow it. And if this new food system is to be
accessible to every American, all Americans must be able to afford to buy
sustainably grown foods at its real cost.
As happens too often, movements of people for positive
social change work in isolation from each other. Those who support the organic and local food movement or
environmental movement don’t necessarily support the economic justice movement. One of the most disturbing facts about
modern America is that we are increasingly separated by shocking
and expanding income inequality and a failure to recognize the common
interests between these movements poses a barrier to fundamental change.
Farmers and food-lovers must move beyond food issues to work
for greater economic justice.
Accepting the argument that more expensive food will harm poor Americans
accepts the presumption that the income of poor Americans will stay the same. If farmers, food-lovers and
environmentalists support the movements to re-balance growing income inequality
in this country, they also support their own interests.
The American populist movements at the turn of the 20th
Century were built on the ability of groups that appeared to have nothing in
common – farmers and urban workers – finding common ground. We are in need of that today; the
recognition that it is better to work to expand the pie for everyone than to
compete to the death for the last few crumbs.
Here’s how you can take action to help start building a
better food system at the individual and systemic levels:
- Buy local and organic, even though it costs more;
- Shop at a local farmers market or join a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program at a local farm (find both at localharvest.org);
- Support legislation that supports local farming and improves access to healthy foods for poor Americans.
- Learn about current income equality initiatives to ensure all American’s can afford healthy foods produced sustainably and voice your support to raise the federal minimum wage.
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